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Christopher Stern
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Ask anyone back from Umrah what they ate, and there’s a good chance the first thing they mention is fried chicken. Not from a chain they know at home, but from Al Baik, the Saudi fast food brand that has an almost legendary following among pilgrims. Some people will tell you about the queues before they tell you about the Kaaba.
Food isn’t the reason anyone goes on Umrah, but it does make a big difference to how the trip feels. You’ll be walking for miles every day, often in the heat, and you need to eat well to keep going. Many all inclusive umrah packages include breakfast at the hotel, and some include other meals too, but most pilgrims still eat out for lunch and dinner. So here’s a guide to what’s on the menu, from fast food to traditional dishes, and how to eat well without spending a fortune.
Al Baik started in Jeddah in the 1970s and has become something of a national treasure in Saudi Arabia. Its branches near the Haram are among the busiest restaurants in the city, and queues can stretch out of the door after the evening prayers.
The menu is short and simple:
The prices are low compared with British fast food, which is part of the appeal. Go outside the busiest times, just after the prayers, if you don’t want to wait.
If your children are fussy, you’ll be relieved to know that many of the big international fast food chains have branches in Makkah and Madinah, including in the shopping centre beneath the Clock Tower. The menus are much the same as in Britain, with a few local additions, and everything is halal.
Many restaurants in Saudi Arabia also show calorie counts on their menus, which can help if you’re trying to eat sensibly while you’re away.
It would be a shame to eat nothing but burgers. Some of the best food in the two cities comes from small, simple restaurants serving local and regional dishes.
Because pilgrims come from every corner of the world, the streets around the Haram are full of restaurants serving their food. You’ll find Pakistani and Indian curries and biryanis, Turkish kebabs and pide, Indonesian and Malaysian rice dishes, Egyptian koshari, and plenty more. British pilgrims of South Asian background often find a curry house that feels just like home within a few minutes of their hotel.
Many hotels close to the Haram offer buffet lunches and dinners, either as part of your package or for an extra charge. They’re handy, especially for older relatives who don’t want to walk far in search of food, and there’s usually a wide choice of Arabic, Asian and Western dishes. On the other hand, they can be expensive if you pay as you go, and the food can get repetitive after a week. Many families find a mix works best: breakfast at the hotel, then lunch or dinner out in the streets around the mosque, where the food is cheaper and often more interesting.
Food costs can add up over two weeks, especially if you’re travelling as a family. This matters most at busy times of year. Cheap December Umrah Packages are popular with British families because they fit the school holidays and the weather is mild, but hotel prices near the Haram are higher over the Christmas period. Many families who choose a lower-priced package make up for it by eating sensibly.
A few simple habits help. Eat a big breakfast at the hotel if it’s included. Choose one main meal a day at a sit-down restaurant and keep the other simple, such as shawarma or a bakery stop. Share large dishes like mandi between several people. Buy fruit, bread, yoghurt and water from small supermarkets near the hotel. And remember that Zamzam is free, so there’s no need to buy bottled water inside the Haram.
Upset stomachs are one of the most common complaints among pilgrims, along with the cough that goes round every group. A few precautions make a difference:
If you have diabetes or another condition affected by diet, plan your meals carefully and carry snacks with you, as it’s easy to go for long periods without eating while you’re at the mosque.
If you travel in Ramadan, the food routine turns upside down. Restaurants are quiet during the day and very busy after sunset. At the Haram, you’ll be offered dates, water, bread and yoghurt at iftar, often given free by local families and charities. Many hotels lay on a large iftar buffet and an early-morning meal before dawn.
Whatever time of year you go, food will become part of your memories of the trip. Sharing a tray of mandi with your family after the evening prayer, or a box of Al Baik eaten on the hotel steps, can be one of the simple pleasures of the journey.
Food isn’t the reason anyone goes on Umrah, but it does make a big difference to how the trip feels. You’ll be walking for miles every day, often in the heat, and you need to eat well to keep going. Many all inclusive umrah packages include breakfast at the hotel, and some include other meals too, but most pilgrims still eat out for lunch and dinner. So here’s a guide to what’s on the menu, from fast food to traditional dishes, and how to eat well without spending a fortune.
Al Baik: the one everyone talks about
Al Baik started in Jeddah in the 1970s and has become something of a national treasure in Saudi Arabia. Its branches near the Haram are among the busiest restaurants in the city, and queues can stretch out of the door after the evening prayers.
The menu is short and simple:
- Broasted chicken. Their famous fried chicken, crispy outside and juicy inside, usually served with fries, a bread roll and a small pot of garlic sauce. You can choose the regular or the spicy version.
- Chicken nuggets and fillet sandwiches. Good for children and quick lunches.
- Shrimp and fish. Less well known, but popular with regulars.
- Garlic sauce. Many people say this is the real reason to go. Ask for an extra pot.
The prices are low compared with British fast food, which is part of the appeal. Go outside the busiest times, just after the prayers, if you don’t want to wait.
Familiar names from home
If your children are fussy, you’ll be relieved to know that many of the big international fast food chains have branches in Makkah and Madinah, including in the shopping centre beneath the Clock Tower. The menus are much the same as in Britain, with a few local additions, and everything is halal.
Many restaurants in Saudi Arabia also show calorie counts on their menus, which can help if you’re trying to eat sensibly while you’re away.
Traditional dishes worth trying
It would be a shame to eat nothing but burgers. Some of the best food in the two cities comes from small, simple restaurants serving local and regional dishes.
- Mandi. Originally from Yemen, this is slow-cooked chicken or lamb on a bed of fragrant rice. It’s usually served on a big tray for sharing, and three or four people can eat from one plate.
- Kabsa. Saudi Arabia’s national dish, a spiced rice dish with meat, often topped with nuts and raisins.
- Mutabbaq. A thin, folded pastry stuffed with meat and egg, or a sweet version with banana and cheese. Sold hot from small shops.
- Shawarma. Thin slices of grilled chicken or meat wrapped in bread with garlic sauce. Cheap, quick and everywhere.
- Ful and tamees. A breakfast of slow-cooked beans with a large flatbread, popular with local workers.
Food from around the Muslim world
Because pilgrims come from every corner of the world, the streets around the Haram are full of restaurants serving their food. You’ll find Pakistani and Indian curries and biryanis, Turkish kebabs and pide, Indonesian and Malaysian rice dishes, Egyptian koshari, and plenty more. British pilgrims of South Asian background often find a curry house that feels just like home within a few minutes of their hotel.
Hotel buffets: worth it or not?
Many hotels close to the Haram offer buffet lunches and dinners, either as part of your package or for an extra charge. They’re handy, especially for older relatives who don’t want to walk far in search of food, and there’s usually a wide choice of Arabic, Asian and Western dishes. On the other hand, they can be expensive if you pay as you go, and the food can get repetitive after a week. Many families find a mix works best: breakfast at the hotel, then lunch or dinner out in the streets around the mosque, where the food is cheaper and often more interesting.
Sweet things and drinks
- Dates. Madinah is famous for them, especially the Ajwa variety. Try a few in the date market before you buy.
- Kunafa. A sweet pastry made with cheese and syrup, often served warm.
- Luqaimat. Little fried dumplings drizzled with date syrup.
- Karak tea. Strong, sweet, milky tea, sold for very little on almost every corner.
- Zamzam water. Free all around the Haram, served chilled and at room temperature.
Eating on a budget in December
Food costs can add up over two weeks, especially if you’re travelling as a family. This matters most at busy times of year. Cheap December Umrah Packages are popular with British families because they fit the school holidays and the weather is mild, but hotel prices near the Haram are higher over the Christmas period. Many families who choose a lower-priced package make up for it by eating sensibly.
A few simple habits help. Eat a big breakfast at the hotel if it’s included. Choose one main meal a day at a sit-down restaurant and keep the other simple, such as shawarma or a bakery stop. Share large dishes like mandi between several people. Buy fruit, bread, yoghurt and water from small supermarkets near the hotel. And remember that Zamzam is free, so there’s no need to buy bottled water inside the Haram.
Staying healthy
Upset stomachs are one of the most common complaints among pilgrims, along with the cough that goes round every group. A few precautions make a difference:
- Choose busy restaurants where food is cooked fresh.
- Wash your hands or use sanitiser before eating.
- Be careful with salads and cut fruit from street stalls.
- Drink plenty of water, especially in warm weather.
- Don’t overdo the fried food. A week of fried chicken can leave you feeling sluggish.
If you have diabetes or another condition affected by diet, plan your meals carefully and carry snacks with you, as it’s easy to go for long periods without eating while you’re at the mosque.
Ramadan menus
If you travel in Ramadan, the food routine turns upside down. Restaurants are quiet during the day and very busy after sunset. At the Haram, you’ll be offered dates, water, bread and yoghurt at iftar, often given free by local families and charities. Many hotels lay on a large iftar buffet and an early-morning meal before dawn.
Whatever time of year you go, food will become part of your memories of the trip. Sharing a tray of mandi with your family after the evening prayer, or a box of Al Baik eaten on the hotel steps, can be one of the simple pleasures of the journey.